Oct 21

I find myself with the Task Manager being disabled. Malware creators like to disable Task Manager so it makes solving the problem and removing the issue difficult.

If this happens you’ll normally have to edit the Windows registry to fix the problem. A restriction has been placed on the user to not allow them to run Task Manager, this might be ok in an office environment where the IT department wants to control things, but in a home office this can cause major problems trying to fix a malware or virus issue.

Listed below you will find the many ways to reenable Task Manager along with an automatic method that works wonders.
To open the Task Manager, you normally would do one of the following:

  • Press CTRL-ALT-DEL on the keyboard
  • Press CTRL-SHIFT-ESC on the keyboard
  • Right-click on a blank area on the start bar and choose Task Manager
  • Click on Start, Run and type TASKMGR in the run box and press Ente

Sometimes instead of Task Manager opening you’ll see the following screen. In these cases, you’ll have to follow the methods below to re-enable access to the Task Manager.


First we’ll begin with the various registry modification methods for correcting this problem.
Method 1 - Using the Group Policy Editor in Windows XP Professional

    Click Start, Run, type gpedit.msc and click OK.Under User Configuration, Click on the plus (+) next to Administrative Templates 

  1. Click on the plus (+) next tSystem, then click on Ctrl+Alt+Delete Options
  2. Find Remove Task Manager in the right-hand pane and double click on it
  3. Choose the option “Not Configured” and click Ok.
  4. Close the Group Policy Window

Method 2: Change the Task Manager Option through the Run line

  1. Click on Start, Run and type the following command exactly and press Enter

REG add HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System /v DisableTaskMgr /t REG_DWORD /d 0 /f

Method 3: Change Task Manager through a Registry REG file

  1. Click on Start, Run, and type Notepad and press Enter
  2. Copy and paste the information between the dotted lines into Notepad and save it to your desktop as taskmanager.reg

————————————
Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00

[HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Policies\System]
“DisableTaskMgr”=dword:00000000
————————————-

3. Double click on the taskmanager.reg file to enter the information into the Windows registry>

Method 4: Delete the restriction in the registry manually

Click on Start, Run, and type REGEDIT and press Enter
Navigate to the following branch

HKEY_CURRENT_USER \ Software \Microsoft \ Windows \ CurrentVersion \ Policies\ System

In the right pane, find and delete the value named DisableTaskMgr
Close the registry editor

Oct 20

If you haven’t yet installed Microsoft’s Service Pack 2 update for Windows XP, here’s another reason to do so: SP2 gives you detailed control of add-ons to Internet Explorer, helping you take back control of your browser and thwart a wide array of spyware attacks. 

On the sly or by masquerading as a useful utility such as a toolbar, spyware can infiltrate Internet Explorer, hijacking your browser, bombarding you with ads, and tracking your every move online. Even legitimate add-ons can be infuriatingly difficult to remove once installed on your system. 

  • To manage add-ons, first make sure you have Service Pack 2 installed. Then launch Internet Explorer, go to the Tools menu, select Internet Options, and click the Programs tab.
  • Click the Manage Add-ons button; you’ll probably be presented with disturbingly long list of add-ons. Go one by one through the list, click anything suspicious, and select the Disable radio button.

Be aggressive in disabling add-ons, especially Browser Helper Objects and Browser Extensions. It’s a simple matter to reenable them if you realize later that you need them. 

Of course, you may want to consider abandoning Internet Explorer altogether and switching to an alternative browser such as Mozilla’s Firefox. That will limit your vulnerability to many spyware and virus threats.

Oct 20
No matter how vigilant you are, you may wake up one morning and find your PC overrun with pop-up ads or your browser hijacked by a piece of spyware. Windows System Restore, found in Windows XP, offers a quick and easy way to remove such a spyware infection–if you catch it early enough. 

Whenever you install a new piece of software or make a major change to your system, you can create a restore pointin Windows, which records your system configuration before the change. This works like a system-wide undo, letting you fix any problems that a new piece of software or hardware or something else has caused. System Restore shouldn’t affect any of your data, only your system configuration, and in any case, the changes you make are completely reversible. You can turn on System Restore so that it automatically creates restore points daily and before you install software. Or if you know you’re about to install a new program or make a change, you can manually create a restore point.

  • To access System Restore, click Start > All Programs > Accessories > System Tools > System Restore. If you have System Restore turned on, you’ll be presented with a calendar showing available restore points. If not, you can choose to create one before you install a new app.
  • If you’ve been using System Restore and suspect you’ve accidentally downloaded spyware, just select the most recent available restore point that you believe predates the introduction of the spyware. Remember, this will undo all changes made to your system, including any software updates, though it won’t delete documents you’ve created since the restore point. So be conservative; you can always try again with an earlier restore point.
  • Once you’ve successfully banished the spyware and restored your system to good working order, you may want to delete your saved restore points so that you don’t inadvertently use System Restore and reinstall the spyware on your system. To do this, right-click the My Computer icon on your desktop, click the System Restore tab, click the check box next to “Turn off System Restore on all drives.” Click OK, then repeat the process, unchecking the box to turn System Restore back on.
  • If you’re about to download software that might be suspicious and you don’t have System Restore turned on (it can be a bit of a system hog), just create a restore point before you install. Click System Restore, then Start > All Programs > Accessories > System Tools > System Restore, and choose “Create a restore point.” Follow the prompts and install without fear. If something goes wrong immediately or after a few days, just restore to the point you created
Oct 11
Code 10
If the device has a FailReasonString value in its hardware key, that string
appears as the error message. The driver or enumerator puts this registry
string value there. If there is no FailReasonString in the hardware key, you
receive the following error message:This device is either not present, not working properly, or does
not have all the drivers installed. (Code 10)
Try upgrading the device drivers for this device.
Solution button: Update Driver

To resolve this error code, make sure that the device is connected to the
computer correctly. For example, make sure that all cables are plugged in
and that all adapter cards are properly seated. Update the device driver as
the Resolution button suggests. You may also be able to remove the device
and redetect it by using the Add New Hardware wizard.

Explanation of error codes generated by Device Manager
http://support.microsoft.com/default…b;en-us;310123
 Each device has specific drivers, So if you want more information or any help please post your quires in our forum we will be happy to help you out.
 

 

 

Oct 11
An alternative to the standard master/slave jumpering system used in the vast majority of PCs is the use of the cable select system. As the name implies, with this system the cable–or more correctly, which connector on the cable a device is attached to–determines which device is master and which is slave. The goal of cable select is to eliminate having to set master and slave jumpers, allowing simpler configuration.

To use cable select, both devices on the channel are set to the “cable select” (CS) setting, usually by a special jumper. Then, a special cable is used. This cable is very similar in most respects to the regular IDE/ATA cable, except for the CSEL signal. CSEL is carried on wire #28 of the standard IDE/ATA cable, and is grounded at the host’s connector (the one that attaches to the motherboard or controller). On a cable select cable, one of the connectors (the “master connector”) has pin #28 connected through to the cable, but the other (the “slave connector”) has an open circuit on that pin (no connection). When both drives on the channel are set cable select, here’s what happens:

 

  • Master: The device that is attached to the “master connector” sees the CSEL signal as grounded, because its connector has pin #28 attached to the cable, and the host’s connector has that signal grounded. Seeing the “zero value” (grounded), the device sets itself to operate as master (device 0).
  • Slave: The drive that is attached to the “slave connector” does not see the CSEL signal as grounded, because its connector is not attached to the CSEL signal on the cable. Seeing this “no connection”, the device configures itself as a slave (device 1).

 

If you switch the devices between the two connectors, they swap configuration, the master becoming the slave and vice-versa. Not a very complicated arrangement, and a good idea, it would seem. In fact, if cable select had actually caught on, it would have been great. The problem is that it has never been widely used, and this lack of universality has made cable select unattractive, which is a bit of a chicken and egg situation. Since cable select was never accepted in the industry, most drives come, by default, with the drive jumpered as a master or single drive. This means that to enable cable select, you have to change a jumper anyway, which obviously negates some of the advantage.

But the biggest reason why cable select never caught on was the cable itself. From the very beginning, all 40-conductor IDE/ATA cables should have been made so that they would work with cable select. There’s actually no need to have different cable types, because if you set a drive to “master” or “slave” explicitly, it just ignores the CSEL setting. So a cable select cable can be used either way: regular jumpering or cable select.

Unfortunately, regular 40-conductor IDE/ATA cables don’t support cable select. (Why this came about I do not know, but I suspect that some bean counter determined they could save five cents on each PC by doing this.) So to use cable select you need a special cable, and these are of course non-standard, making them a special purchase. Also, many people don’t understand cable select, nor do they realize it needs a special cable. If you set both drives to “CS” and then use them on a regular (non-cable-select) IDE cable, both drives will configure themselves as “master”, causing a configuration conflict.

Making matters worse, the 40-conductor IDE/ATA cable select cables have the “master connector” as the middle device and the “slave connector” as the device at the end of the cable, farthest from the host. For signaling reasons, it’s best to put a single drive at the end of a cable, not put it in the middle leaving a “stub” of wire hanging off the end of the channel. But if you do this, that single drive sets itself as a slave with no master, a technically illegal configuration. Worse, suppose you do this, and your hard disk sets itself as a slave, and the system boots from it without problem, as most would. Then, you decide to add a new hard disk. You set it to cable select and attach it to the middle connector. The new drive then becomes the master, and thus moves ahead of the old drive in precedence! The system will try to boot from it instead of your old drive (which some people might want, but many do not.)

To get around this problem, a second type of 40-wire cable select cable was created, the so-called “Y-shaped” cable. On this one, the connector to the system is in the middle, and the slave and master connectors are on the two opposite ends of the cable. This certainly makes things less confusing, but has its own difficulties. For starters, IDE/ATA cables are very limited in length, which means this “Y-shaped” cable was hard to use in large tower systems. All your drives had to be mounted very close to the motherboard or controller card so the cable would reach. And again, the cable was a special item.

As you can see, the traditional way of doing cable select was a total mess, which was why it was never widely adopted. The key reason for this mess was–once again–lack of standardization. I rather expected cable select to eventually wither away. However, when the 80-conductor Ultra DMA cable was introduced, the cable select feature was much improved, changing the potential of this feature. The two key changes were:

  • Drive Position: Unlike the old cables, with the 80-conductor cable, the master connector is at the end of the cable, and the slave is in the middle. As I explained above, this is a much more sensible arrangement, since a single drive placed at the end of the cable will be a master, and a second drive added in the middle a slave.
  • Universality: All 80-conductor IDE/ATA cables support cable select (or at least, all of the ones that are built to meet the ATA standards). This means there’s no confusion over what cables support the feature, and no need for strange “Y-cables” and other non-standard solutions.

These two changes mean a world of difference for the future of cable select. Since these cables will eventually completely replace all of the 40-conductor cables, all systems will be capable of running cable select without any special hardware being needed. As I mentioned before, you can still explicitly set drives to master or slave if you want to, and the CSEL signal will be ignored by the drives. So the bottom line is that these cables work either way, cable select or not. What will finally make cable select catch on? If drive manufacturers and systems integrators widely agree to use it, and the manufacturers start shipping drives with the “CS” jumpers on by default. We’ll have to see if this happens.

Warning: 80-conductor IDE/ATA cables are often said to be compatible with 40-conductor cables. That’s true of normal 40-conductor cables with drives jumpered as master and slave, but not cable select cables. If you swap a regular (non-”Y-shaped”) 40-conductor cable select cable with an 80-conductor IDE cable, the master and slave drives will swap logical positions. If you don’t that to happen, you’ll need to change the order that the devices connect to the cabl

Oct 10
BIOS Upgrades
icon1 deepak | icon2 Post/Bios | icon4 10 10th, 2008| icon3No Comments »

With so many advances in technology, sometimes your computer may need a BIOS upgrade to take advantage of new devices, or make your computer perform better.

eSupport.com is the world’s oldest and largest provider of BIOS Upgrade technology with nearly 15 years of unparalleled excellence in the industry. eSupport.com is the OFFICIAL AUTHORIZED BIOS upgrade and support center for Award BIOS and AMI BIOS (American Megatrends Inc.).

Take advantage of their free tools to examine your BIOS and learn more.

BIOS Agent

The BIOS Agent is a simple, easy to use program that will automatically identify your computers BIOS and other system information. You’ll quickly identify:

  • BIOS Date
  • Motherboard OEM data
  • CPU data
  • BIOS Type
  • Motherboard Chipset
  • BIOS ROM data
  • BIOS ID String
  • Super I/O data
  • Memory data

BIOS Wizard

Oct 10

These audio codes are a little more detailed then the AMI codes. This BIOS emits three sets of beeps. For example, 1 -pause- 3 -pause 3 -pause. This is a 1-3-3 combo and each set of beeps is separated by a brief pause. Listen to this sequence of sounds, count them, and reboot and count again if you have to.

 

1-1-3 Your computer can’t read the configuration info stored in the CMOS. Replace the motherboard. 
1-1-4 Your BIOS needs to be replaced. 
1-2-1 You have a bad timer chip on the motherboard. You need a new motherboard. 
1-2-2 The motherboard is bad. 
1-2-3 The motherboard is bad. 
1-3-1 You’ll need to replace the motherboard. 
1-3-3 You’ll need to replace the motherboard. 
1-3-4  The motherboard is bad. 
1-4-1 The motherboard is bad. 
1-4-2  Some of your memory is bad. 
2-_-_  Any combo of beeps after two means that some of your memory is bad, and unless you want to get real technical, you should probably have the guys in the lab coats test the memory for you. Take it to the shop. 
3-1-_  One of the chips on your motherboard is broken. You’ll likely need to get another board. 
3-2-4 One of the chips on your motherboard that checks the keyboard is broken. You’ll likely need to get another board. 
3-3-4 Your computer can’t find the video card. Is it there? If so, try swapping it with another one and see if it works. 
3-4-_  Your video card isn’t working. You’ll need to replace it. 
4-2-1 There’s a bad chip on the motherboard. You need to buy another board. 
4-2-2 First check the keyboard for problems. If nothing, you have a bad motherboard. 
4-2-3  Same as 4-2-2. 
4-2-4  One of the cards is bad. Try yanking out the cards one by one to isolate the culprit. Replace the bad one. The last possibility is to buy another motherboard. 
4-3-1 Replace the motherboard. 
4-3-2 See 4-3-1
4-3-3 See 4-3-1
4-3-4 Time of day clock failure. Try running the setup program that comes with the computer. Check the date and time. If that doesn’t work, replace the battery. If that doesn’t work, replace the power supply. You may have to replace the motherboard, but that is rare. 
4-4-1 Your serial ports are acting up. Reseat, or replace, the I/O card. If the I/O is on the motherboard itself, disable them with a jumper (consult your manual to know which one) and then add an I/O card. 
4-4-2 See 4-4-1, but this time is your Parallel port that’s acting up.
4-4-3 You math coprocessor is having problems. Run a test program to double-check it. If it is indeed bad, disable it, or replace it.
Low 1-1-2 Your motherboard is having problems
Low 1-1-3 This is an Extended CMOS RAM problem, check your motherboard battery, and motherboard.

 

Oct 10
AMI BIOS Beep Codes
icon1 deepak | icon2 Post/Bios | icon4 10 10th, 2008| icon3No Comments »


1 Short Beep One beep is good! Everything is ok, that is if you see things on the screen. If you don’t see anything, check your monitor and video card first. Is everything connected? If they seem fine, your motherboard has some bad chips on it. First reset the SIMM’s and reboot. If it does the same thing, one of the memory chips on the motherboard are bad, and you most likely need to get another motherboard since these chips are soldered on. 
2 Short Beeps  Your computer has memory problems. First check video. If video is working, you’ll see an error message. If not, you have a parity error in your first 64K of memory. First check your SIMM’s. Reseat them and reboot. If this doesn’t do it, the memory chips may be bad. You can try switching the first and second banks memory chips. First banks are the memory banks that your CPU finds its first 64K of base memory in. You’ll need to consult your manual to see which bank is first. If all your memory tests good, you probably need to buy another motherboard. 
3 Short Beeps Basically the same thing as 2 beeps. Follow that diagnosis above. 
4 Short Beeps Basically the same thing as 2 beeps. Follow that diagnosis above. It could also be a bad timer 
5 Short Beeps Your motherboard is complaining. Try reseating the memory and rebooting. If that doesn’t help, you should consider another motherboard. You could probably get away with just replacing the CPU, but that’s not too cost-effective. Its just time to upgrade! 
6 Short Beeps The chip on your motherboard that controls your keyboard (A20 gate) isn’t working. First try another keyboard. If it doesn’t help, reseat the chip that controls the keyboard, if it isn’t soldered in. If it still beeps, replace the chip if possible. Replace the motherboard if it is soldered in. 
7 Short Beeps Your CPU broke overnight. Its no good. Either replace the CPU, or buy another motherboard. 
8 Short Beeps Your video card isn’t working. Make sure it is seated well in the bus. If it still beeps, either the whole card is bad or the memory on it is. Best bet is to install another video card. 
9 Short Beeps Your BIOS is bad. Reseat or Replace the BIOS. 
10 Short Beeps Your problem lies deep inside the CMOS. All chips associated with the CMOS will likely have to be replaced. Your best bet is to get a new motherboard.
11 Short Beeps Your problem is in the Cache Memory chips on the motherboard. Reseat or Replace these chips.
1 Long, 3 Short Beeps You’ve probably just added memory to the motherboard since this is a conventional or extended memory failure. Generally this is caused by a memory chip that is not seated properly. Reseat the memory chips.
1 Long, 8 Short Beeps Display / retrace test failed. Reseat the video card.
Oct 10

100 - 199

System Board
200 - 299 Memory
300 - 399 Keyboard
400 - 499 Monochrome Display
500 - 599 Color/Graphics Display
600 - 699 Floppy-disk drive and/or Adapter
700 - 799 Math Coprocessor
900 - 999 Parallel Printer Port
1000 - 1099 Alternate Printer Adapter
1100 - 1299 Asynchronous Communication Device, Adapter, or Port
1300 - 1399 Game Port
1400 - 1499 Color/Graphics Printer
1500 - 1599 Synchronous Communication Device, Adapter, or Port
1700 - 1799 Hard Drive and/or Adapter
1800 - 1899 Expansion Unit (XT)
2000 - 2199 Bisynchronous Communication Adapter
2400 - 2599 EGA system-board Video (MCA)
3000 - 3199 LAN Adapter
4800 - 4999 Internal Modem
7000 - 7099 Phoenix BIOS Chips
7300 - 7399 3.5″ Disk Drive
8900 - 8999 MIDI Adapter
11200 - 11299 SCSI Adapter
21000 - 21099 SCSI Fixed Disk and Controller
21500 - 21599 SCSI CD-ROM System

 

Oct 10

1 short beep

Normal POST - system is ok
2 short beeps POST Error - error code shown on screen
No beep Power supply or system board problem
Continuous beep Power supply, system board, or keyboard problem
Repeating short beeps Power supply or system board problem
1 long, 1 short beep System board problem
1 long, 2 short beeps Display adapter problem (MDA, CGA)
1 long, 3 short beeps Enhanced  Graphics Adapter (EGA)
3 long beeps 3270 keyboard card

 

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